Anchovies
A Mediterranian Classic
Important things to note when buying anchovies
Most of the anchovies caught are preserved. Except for the “white anchovies” packed in a vinegar marinade, the other methods of preserving with salt will turn the flesh that familiar reddish-brown hue.
Acchiughe sotto sale:
Anchovies preserved in salt and sold from barrels or large tins. Salt-packed anchovies are a revelation and worth seeking as their flavor is the truest of all cured anchovies. They’re bigger and meatier than oil-packed anchovies, and they have a more mellow, fuller flavor. A common imported brand is labeled Agostino Recca – Acciughe Salate – from Sicily. A good Salumeria will sell them out of a 5-kilo tin.
How to fillet and store salt-packed anchovies (see photos below): Salt-packed anchovies must be rinsed and filleted before they can be used, and their superior flavor makes it well worth it! Rinse under cold running water to dislodge the salt. This will also soften the fish, making them easier to fillet. Under slow running water, holding the rinsed anchovy belly side up, run your finger from the head to the tail and dislodge the viscera. Then separate the fillets, and expose the backbone. Lift the backbone and lateral pin bones away from the fillet and discard the bones. Lay the rinsed fillets on an absorbent towel to dry. Taste the anchovies and if they’re still too salty, soak them in water or milk for about 20 minutes. Pack the fillets in a glass jar and cover them with olive oil. Store in a cool dry place.
Filletti di acchiuga sott'olio
Anchovies are skinned, filleted, and preserved under oil in glass jars or tin cans. Glass jars will allow you to see the fillets so that you can pick the meatiest. They are also sometimes rolled around capers. Choose a brand that’s packed in olive oil (rather than vegetable oil). Taste the anchovies and if you find them too salty soak them in cold water for about 15 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towels before using.
Once the container is opened, any unused anchovies should be stored in a tightly covered glass jar, covered with at least a half-inch of olive oil on top, and refrigerate. Cured anchovies tend to develop an unpleasant fishy aroma if left exposed to the air. Anchovies can be refrigerated for at least 2 months.
Alici Marinate
White anchovies – boneless fillets packed in oil, salt, spices, and white wine vinegar marinade (refrigerated). They are milder in flavor and the pickling process turns them bright white.
Pasta d'acciuga
A silky, creamy, earthy brown paste made from pureed anchovies, olive oil, and salt. It comes in toothpaste-like tubes and can be easily used to anoint grilled or oven-roasted fish, pork, lamb, beef, or chicken; mix into fish soups and stews; or stir into salad dressings. Anchovy paste tends to be a bit saltier, so take this into consideration when seasoning. One-half teaspoon of anchovy paste is equivalent to 1 anchovy
Colatura di alici
Known as garum in the Roman era, it is a highly prized, expensive seasoned liquid made from salted anchovies. The process used today for making colatura is particularly laborious. It begins in May when the anchovies have reached a good size. After harvesting, the heads and innards of the freshly caught anchovies are removed by hand and then left for about 12 hours in tubs containing a mixture of salt and water. They are then drained and stacked in oak or chestnut barrels, layered with salt, covered, held down with weights, and left for 9-12 months to “mature.” As the anchovies ferment, the salt draws the moisture out of the fish, and that liquid collects in a pool at the bottom of the barrel (the verb colare means to drip). The barrel’s bottom is then pierced, drained, and the liquid anchovy essence is filtered through cloth, then jarred and left to rest in the sun to evaporate the water. The liquid is then often poured back into the wooden barrels over the curing anchovies to further increase the depth of flavor.
Colatura can range in color and pungency depending on how long the anchovies are cured for – from light yellow to deep amber. Good colatura has a pungent, savory fish flavor, complex, slightly salty with wonderful notes of umami and sweetness. It is only produced in small quantities – each barrel, filled with 20 kilos of anchovies, produces about 2 liters of colatura.
If you see it on a shelf, grab it, you won’t be disappointed. Make a salsetta by mixing a few tablespoons of EVOO with a clove or two of crushed garlic and a teaspoon or so of colatura. This “little sauce” is great on spaghetti or linguine as well as fish and any vegetable. I love it with sauteed escarole or chicory. You can also enhance the salsetta with cherry tomatoes, minced parsley, or a little crushed pepper. Other ingredients that go well with colatura are olives, capers, walnuts, and oregano. Remember to go easy on the salt; colatura is salty by nature. Actually, it’s the secret ingredient to most of my dishes. When you are cooking a savory dish and tasting tells you something is needed, add a splash of colatura – and your dish will be transformed!
Anchovy products can be purchased in the following North End Shops:
Bricco Salumeria and Pasta Shop, 11 Board Alley, Boston
Monica’s Pasta Shop, 139 Richmond Street, Boston
Polcari’s Coffee, 105 Salem Street, Boston
Salumeria Italiana, 151 Richmond Street, Boston